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This report is about taking a
house and restoring it to an aesthetically pleasing
dwelling that has reclaimed it’s functional utility. In
effect, it is the anti-aging medication for bricks and
mortar.
This report assumes that
you have already or will soon acquire the proper house.
The one that is in essence, ripe for rehab. Be selective
and sure of the house’s potential to allow for a profit
after all the hard work is done. I will help you find your
house or houses.
In the proverbial nutshell,
it helps if you choose a house from the start that has a
sound plumbing, heating and electrical system.
- Plumbing
- Heating
- Electrical
These are things that are
expensive to correct in relation to the value they return
to you upon resale. Most often, people cannot see the
inner workings of these systems and they take them for
granted.
Very few buyers are going
to give you an extra $15,000-$20,000 in your asking price
because you have replaced things that they can’t see and
already take for granted as just a basic component that is
buried in the structure. Also, they assume these
components to be warranted against defects by you.
After all, it is mandatory
in most, if not all states that you fill out a disclosure
form that tells the buyer of every defect that exists or
ever has to your knowledge. So inspect the systems of your
investment alternatives carefully, as they can be
expensive to repair and replace, with minimum dollar
return value being realized at the sale.
Along these same lines, you
should also pay close attention to the following cash
vacuums:
- Roof
- Foundation
- Structural Integrity
Here are a few ways to
quickly gage a home from its appearance:
Stand across the street
from it. Now look at the bones of the structure. Does it
look like a sway-backed horse, with the roof sagging in
the middle? Does it have flat areas in its design that
don’t allow water to be drained away quickly?
Water, dampness and rot are
the equivalent of cancer to the human body when it
concerns a structure. Shingles can be replaced. That
won’t necessarily stop me from buying. Usually I will
use that old roof as a bargaining chip in negotiating the
seller down to a lower price. However, if I crawl into the
attic and see that the plywood has become rotted and truss
members are also affected, it’s time to move on to my
next potential deal. Life is too short and I will never
rehab it in 10 days if I have to rip the roof off and
rebuild it too.
Some other conditions, such
as sagging eves, wavy roof surface, rotten fascia and trim
pieces, and insect infestations can be deal killers too,
if severe.
Solution: Get into the
structural members with a long, sharp, sturdy, standard
flat-tip screwdriver and attempt to penetrate structural
components that are made of wood. You won’t hurt
anything if there are no underlying deficiencies. However,
if someone has freshly painted over or patched it, that
screwdriver is one heck of a lie detector! Use it.
Now, I’m not saying
people would do that. It may just be the termites have
eaten everything but the exterior coating of the wood to
conceal their activity whatever the case probe.
There are also tile roofs,
metal roofs, cedar shake roofs, hot-rolled roofing, tar
and gravel roofs and always a few new high-tech roof
coatings. I feel my main concern is whether the decking or
the roof support structure has been undermined by water,
insects, rodents, poor materials, poor design or
craftsmanship, a lack of fasteners, strapping, etc.
Shingles and coatings can
be replaced. Just know what is underneath. That’s my
criteria. Negotiate lower for needed replacement of roof
coverings if you can. I dwell on roofs because it protects
everything else!
Next on the list of deal
killers is the foundation. The same thing applies to the
foundation. I will start by standing back from it and
looking at it from a distance. Does this place look like
the Leaning Tower of Pisa? Or are the seams coming apart?
Do the windows and doors look square? Are porches, stairs
and additions on firm ground as well?
Block homes can tell you
very quickly if they are stressed out just by the
appearance of the mortar joints. Those giant unsettling
cracks can and do tell a story. This does happen and
mortar cracks maybe 10-years old. You need to investigate
further.
Once again, water is a sign
of trouble with foundations because it leads to erosion,
rot, mold and mildew. It washes out foundation materials
and slabs will crack. It rots sill plates and your walls
are no longer firmly attached to a base.
If you have a crawl space,
it’s time to get your coveralls on and get in there.
Now, let’s use our heads here and I mean this! Before
you enter a dark, supposedly uninhabited, infrequently
entered, dark and restrictive to movement area, assess the
situation. Ask someone who has knowledge of the dwelling
if there has been any animal activity that they know of.
You may also encounter bees, wasps, ants, spiders, snakes,
slugs, mosquitoes, rats, mice and a host of other
inhabitants. Beware an d be prepared. It’s truly another
world in some cases.
If you don’t want to do
it, hire a professional and I do mean a pro, not some Joe
who says he is one. For goodness sake, use a licensed
professional home inspector to protect yourself in all
areas if you’re just not sure!
OK, you’re a trooper and
you’re going in. Good for you, Rambo! You’ll make it
in this business because it takes faith, guts and
determination. By getting into this type of situation,
you’ll learn a lot more about every part of the homes
you inspect.
You should have a strong
flashlight, your trusty screwdriver, maybe some insect
repellent and a safety observer standing at the access
entry to give you piece of mind. Now you can go to the
perimeter walls and inspect where the walls meet the
foundation. Look for rot, misalignment, cracks,
separations, water damage or any other condition that
doesn’t appear normal.
While you’re down there,
look at the other foundational supports, you will see pier
blocks and posts, other concrete support pillars and
walls, beams, joists and cross bracing, and the underside
of sub-flooring. Check this stuff’s condition. Does it
look original? Is it structurally sound? Or are there some
discrepancies that need further investigation? Take a good
look and smell!
Don’t leave yet. You also
will want to look at all that plumbing and electrical that
is there as well. Scan the perimeter. Do you see any
sunlight coming in from where it shouldn’t be? That
might be a hole that needs repair. This is common sense
land, not computer a chip lab. You can inspect for general
condition. Simply follow everything to its logical end,
looking mainly at the condition of the different
components.
OK, you’ve made mental
and physical notes. Now dust yourself off and go inside
the house if everything has checked out so far. So the
roof and foundation have passed your keen eye. Let’s
look at the rest of the house with respect to its
structural integrity. More than half of your structural
integrity check at this point is already complete as the
roof and foundation are two of the most important
components and those have been done. Now you are left with
the interior spaces of the structure.
Here’s what I do once
inside. I stand at the front door with a checklist in hand
(www.inspectamerica.com) and I begin to scan the walls,
ceiling and floors. I’m looking for water stains on all
three surfaces, as well as patches that were used to
repair or conceal damage. I go through every room and look
for signs of damage or concealment.
Any flat floor is a good
candidate for my scientific marble test. I’ll drop my
marble; if it rolls to a corner, that floor ain’t level,
Buckwheat. That’s a simple test but I do want to know
that the under-layer or sub-flooring is sound and firmly
attached to all those joists, and beams and trimmers and
blah, blah, blah.
Soft spongy floors are of
concern, creaky floors are annoying and rotten floors are
another story. So once again, I’m looking at the
structural support of the floors. I don’t care that the
cheap, yellowed vinyl is coming up at the seams. I don’t
care that the carpet is matted down or thread bare, and I
don’t mind if the finish is worn off of hardwood floors
or tiles are loose.
Floor coverings fall under
the label of cosmetics. That’s such a pretty word and
that’s what you want to concentrate on: cosmetics...more
on that in a moment.
So the floors pass my test
for sub-flooring and structural integrity is great. Now I
can check that the walls are square because they are
attached to that floor, and then I can check that the
doors all operate properly and are square too.
How much more can there be
than that, Dan? Well, let me tell you a few things that
can bite you here. Let’s say the structure overall is
good. By that, I mean you have a solid roof, a solid
foundation and sturdy floors and walls.
What is behind those walls?
The things that bite you aren’t usually seen until you
get bit. One particular painful bite is finding out your
wiring is not grounded or that the circuits are not
properly protected. You’re looking for three-pronged
outlets and modern plastic-encased wiring made of copper,
not aluminum. You want circuit breakers, not fuses. What
you really need here is a licensed electrician to do this
more in-depth and professionally licensed review of the
system.
I have seen more than one
Joe Homeowner rehab go up in flames because of a lack of
respect for electricity. Licensed electricians bring you
up to code and protect your investment. Find a good one
and make it a point to shower him or her with praise,
attention and money well spent.
They will give you free
estimates, so use them as a preliminary inspector with
you. If you decide to buy it, use them to do the work that
needs to be done.
Plumbers are a breed apart.
You would think they use gold for soldering your pipes
with the prices they charge. My grandfather was a plumber
and I was on the truck with him at nine years old. A
plumber may or may not give you a free estimate. With a
little digging, it can be done. Just give them the work if
indeed you do buy the house.
With plumbers, the only
time you’re going to need one is if you are doing major
system work or the once every ten year hot water heater
job. Also the occasional clogged main sewer line to the
street.
In today’s P.V.C. plastic
plumbing kits world, you can hire just about any good
all-around handyman to get the job done. If you have to
tear through a wall to get at plumbing, building code
inspector-man will say, “Get a licensed plumber.”
Heating and cooling: the
air conditioning system, if the house you’re inspecting
doesn’t have adequate heating and cooling, that can
become expensive. Let’s say you have a flat roof home in
a hot climate with window unit air-conditioners, and you
intend on bringing this house up to what a modern day home
dweller expects.
You may have a problem.
Where would you put new ductwork if you don’t have attic
space to house and route central heat and air? Once again,
call in a pro if you need some advice. They do give free
estimates!
Here’s a point for you to
follow up on: the plumbing, heating and air-conditioning
guys all drive service trucks. Be on the lookout for those
trucks if they are your neighbors; go say “Hello” and
introduce yourself.
Regardless, I have always
done this and what I am saying is this: these guys most
always work on the side and that means half price. You may
have to pull a permit as a homeowner but the savings is
substantial. Develop a network of these blue-collar
geniuses. They are the guys who will transform your
investment fast!
So now you have a solid
house. By that I mean, plumbing, electrical, heating and
air-conditioning, roof, foundation and overall good
structural integrity.
So what’s left to do?
Call in your army of carpenter ants, from painters to
carpenters and flooring installers, yard maintenance and
tree trimmers, and handymen of all sorts.
This is the whirlwind tour.
Let the demolition guy in first. Order a dumpster for the
next ten days. Order demolition man to throw out
everything including the kitchen sink. What I am out to do
at this point is to clear the decks.
A blank canvass is created
for the painters to perform the transformation. They come
in at this point and patch and paint. Let them blast the
place with their airless paint-spraying arsenal inside and
out. Give them 3 days and you have just added a huge
improvement to your investment. This is the biggest
dollar-for-dollar return you can make.
One cautionary note here:
Make absolutely sure that quality paint is used. When it
comes to painting, it’s the labor that kills you, not
the material. I insist on Sherwin Williams Super Paint. It
is a miracle formula that I am convinced could cover up
bullet holes without any patching compound and it lasts
forever. It’s worth every penny; insist on it!
So my idea of finding the
ideal fixer upper is to find those where the structure and
systems are fine but it still needs demolition man and the
paint brigade. Everything up to this point has been
inspection and appraisal of the situation. Once I’m
satisfied that it is a cosmetic rehab and not the
expensive money pit, I send in my cosmetologists.
I wouldn’t call these
guys that to their face but these are normally men adding
residential make-up to the bricks and mortar. Once the
painters leave, the flooring guys are right behind them,
laying tile and carpet. These guys are out in 2-3 days and
my cabinet and handyman plumber are attacking.
Light fixtures, vanities,
toilets, sinks, doors, switch plates and outlet
covers…wham, ten days are up and this house is either
held out for rent, lease-optioned or sold for a whole heck
of a lot more than the ten grand I put into it, if that
much.
You must be somewhat of an
appraiser and deal finder. It takes time to recruit your
cosmetologists, but you will run across them in your
travels. Friends and family usually can provide you with
some serious leads. Start networking and talking to
tradesmen. Get their numbers and schedule them to descend
upon your ugly duckling at certain times and watch the
transformation begin.
It took me years to learn
these tricks. I did it all myself for years and it always
took three months when I did it myself. The sad part is
that I thought I was saving money that way.
Can you see how much I
actually lost? Here is a quick example. I bought a house
for $55,000. Its deficiencies were purely cosmetic. I used
other people to do all the work and I pitched in to keep
them organized. Ten days later, it was done. I spent a
total of $5,000 on materials and labor and it appraised at
$90,000 in 10 days!
That’s $30,000 in 10
days, not 3 months. Now marketing time would take 45 days
but I know how to do that too, and I will also show you
how you can do it too.
There is no doubt about it.
This can be done and you can do it. In all honesty, it may
take you 30 days to achieve a completed house. That’s
may be 3 times what it took me but I am experienced.
Here’s a pretty neat way
I figured out how to find good cosmetologists (tradesmen).
If I know relatively no one in the area, I will ask a
local appraiser to suggest who he would use if he were me.
This is an intelligent way
to ask that question. I ask it in this form: “If you
were me, who would you use?” Now that triggers a
self-preservation mechanism in their brain and they give
me excellent people, who are very good at what they do!
Try it; it works.
I went to appraisal school
and learned a lot. Believe me, appraisers are underrated
and treated poorly. They truly are experts at discerning
quality and value. They know whom does quality work. Make
friends with a competent appraiser and the lenders that
accept their appraisals. Hint: You’ll get very fair
evaluations and their lender approves them.
Marketing, hunting, finding
and capturing the “ripe for rehab houses” is another
book entirely. However, don’t lose faith because I have
written that book for you as well. Here is an excerpt from
my other book. It is called Magic Bullets In Real Estate.
There are 4 phases, or
lifecycles, to real estate and here is how it often goes.
Phase 1 You will see new
construction, bright shiny homes popping up, landscaping
contests, baby strollers and tricycles in the
neighborhood. This is probably going on in the suburbs of
the city, as new growth tends to radiate out at a pace of
one mile per year from growing and prosperous cities.
Phase 2 The same
neighborhood now 10-15 years later has aged a bit and now
you see basketball hoops and 2-wheel bikes, as the kids
are older and want more mobility.
Phase 3 The kids are grown
and gone with families of their own and now the parents
are riding their own 3-wheel bicycles, trikes to the hip
grannies. Here in Phase 3, you’re looking at 25-35 year
old homes, where some people are passing away. Others are
just hanging in and some are moving in with the kids or
going to an A.L.F. (Assisted Living Facility). No doubt,
you have outdated homes, deferred maintenance and some
repairs to be made. Here is the beauty of this whole
thing. These are my cosmetology candidates. Here’s why!
The formally elder owners lived there and they needed
everything to work. They didn’t update it. They just
fixed things that needed repair in order to maintain a
level of comfort. They had pest control and the Sears man
come annually and piddled around. So things were kind of
looked after in that manner. Buy here!
Phase 4 Revitalization –
That’s what happens as a result of you buying your ripe-
for-rehab fixer-upper in Phase 3 neighborhoods. Odds are,
you will rent it out, lease-option it or sell it to a
young family when it does sell, and guess what? Yep, out
come the tricycles and baby strollers and it starts all
over again.
Tricycles
Bicycles
3-wheel bikes (buy here!)
Revitalization
Determine what cycle
different neighborhoods are in! Follow cycle #3.
Isn’t that a beautiful
story; isn’t that the truth? Think about your own
parents and your own childhood. Now I also want you to
think about that brand new young family that is counting
on you to treat them fairly and give them a trouble-free
home when they buy or rent from you.
The harder and smarter you
work, the better quality and value you can provide to
others. Don’t rip them off. Don’t take advantage,
don’t scrimp and for Pete’s sake, do your best to do
your level best. You need education and help from others
to achieve these heights of excellence. Visit us starting
July 2004 at www.magicbullets.com
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About
The Author
Dan
Auito is a dual-licensed real estate agent
and appraisal assistant. Dan is a 20-year
veteran of the United States Coast Guard.
He has acquired over 1.3 million in real
estate assets in 14 years while also
founding a non-profit drug prevention
corporation, a real estate consulting
group and is the author of “Magic
Bullets in Real Estate.” This 300-page
power-packed book (due out in early July
2004) comes with a website that further
supports its readers. Dan lives with his
wife Kimberly and their two children,
Brandon and Briana, on the emerald isle of
Kodiak Island, Alaska. Dan may be reached
at magicbullets@alaska.com
or by visiting www.magicbullets.com.
Call 1 907 481-6300 or write 1619 Three
Sisters Way Kodiak AK 99615 |
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